GEMSTONE ENHANCEMENT CODES
Published by the American Gem Trade Association.
Enhancement: Any treatment process other than cutting and polishing that
improves the appearance (color/clarity/phenomena), durability, or availability
of a gemstone.
N: The “N” symbol appears on the chart only for natural stones which are not
currently known to be enhanced; however, the “N” symbol can also be used for
other natural gemstones in the event that a gemstone has received no enhancement
and the seller will provide a guarantee that there has been none.
E: The “E” symbol indicates that a gemstone has undergone its traditional
enhancement process.
B
Bleaching: The use of heat, light and/or other agents to lighten or remove a
gemstone's color. |
C
Coating: The use of such surface enhancements as lacquering, enameling,
inking, foiling, or sputtering of films to improve appearance, provide color, or
add other special effects. |
D
Dyeing: The introduction of coloring matter into a gemstone to give it new
color, intensify present color or improve color uniformity. |
F
Filling: The filling of surface-breaking cavities or fissures with colorless
glass, plastic, solidified borax or similar substances. This process may improve
durability, appearance, and/or add weight. |
H
Heating: The use of heat to effect desired alteration of color, clarity,
and/or phenomena (if residue of foreign substances in open fractures is visible
under properly illuminated 10X magnification HF should be used. |
HP
Heat & Pressure: The use of heat and pressure combined to effect desired
alterations of color clarity and/or phemonena. |
I
Impregantion: The impregnation of a porous gemstone with a colorless agent
(usually plastic) to improve durability and appearance. |
L
Lasering: The use of a laser and chemicals to reach and alter inclusions in
diamonds. |
O
Oiling/Resin Infusion: The filling of surface-breaking fissures with
colorless oil, wax, resin, or other colorless substances, except glass or
plastic, to improve the gemstones appearance. |
R
Irradiation: The use of neutrons, gamma rays or beta particles (high energy
electrons) to alter a gemstones color. The irradiation may be followed by a
heating process. |
U
Diffusion: The use of chemicals in conjunction with high temperatures to
produce artificial color and/or asterism-producing inclusions. |
W
Waxing/Oiling: The impregnation of a colorless wax, paraffin, and oil in
porous opaque or translucent gemstones to improve
appearance. |
PEARL FACTS
Because of the rarity of naturally occurring pearls, a process of cultivating
pearls was introduced in the early 1900s. In this process, a small bead of
polished shell is inserted into an oyster or mollusk to act as an irritant and
produce a pearl, which can take up to 24 months. These pearls are referred to as
cultured pearls. Pearls are classically elegant and never go out of style.
Types of pearls
Akoya-These pearls were the first type of pearl to be cultured. Japan and
China are the main producers of these pearls. They are consistently round, which
makes them perfect for strands. Colors range from white to cream, though some
can be gray or black.
Freshwater-The freshwater pearl is usually slightly less round, smaller in
size, and possesses less luster than other varieties of saltwater pearls. These
pearls are usually cultivated in China and provide a value-priced option.
Mabé-(MAH bay) Instead of growing inside an oyster or mollusk like other
pearls, the mabé pearl actually grows against the shell of the oyster, creating
a dome-shaped pearl. This pearl is harvested, then assembled. The nucleus is
removed and replaced by resin, while mother-of-pearl is used to cover the flat
back. Mabés traditionally have high luster and lower prices than round
pearls.
South Sea-These pearls are cultured in the northern waters of Australia,
Indonesia, and the Philippines. These pearls are considerably larger than akoya
pearls and much more sensitive during the cultivation process. South Sea pearls
are naturally white, cream, or golden in color.
Tahitian-These pearls are slightly smaller than the South Sea pearl, but are
also sensitive during the cultivation process. The colors of black, silver, and
gray occur naturally and they are cultured in Tahiti as their name
implies.
Color
Pearls are produced in a variety of colors, as noted in the types of
pearls. Most range from white, cream, and yellow to pink, silver, and black.
Most pearls will have both a primary color, the first color you will notice, and
a secondary color, the overtone you notice when you take a closer look. Color
variation does not decrease the value of the pearl, but is important when
matching pearls to be used in strands, earrings, bracelets, etc.
Luster
A pearl's luster is the result of multiple layers, also called the nacre
(NAY ker), that the oyster or mollusk secreted to make the pearl. The thicker
the nacre, the more luster a pearl has. You will notice the luster as the deep
sheen that reflects light on the surface of the pearl.
Shape
Pearls come in a variety of different shapes. The most coveted of these is
round. Akoya, Tahitian, and South Sea pearls are most often the roundest of the
pearls. Other shapes can make beautiful jewelry as well, sometimes providing you
with different price options.
Surface
Because pearls rely on an uncontrollable environment in which to grow, very
rarely will you find a perfect pearl. The surface of a pearl may not always be
smooth, often including spots, bumps, etc. The beauty of these pearls may be
enhanced by the ability to sometimes be camouflaged during the stringing and
setting process.
Size
The size of the oyster or mollusk that a pearl is produced within will have
a direct effect on the size of the pearl. The size alone may not greatly impact
the price of a pearl, but when you combine it with a perfectly round shape and
beautiful luster, the value will dramatically increase.
RING SIZING
We offer custom ring sizing at no additional charge. Most of our rings can
be sized, but due to the nature of some designs, not all rings can be sized.
When placing your order, an asterisk (*) beside a ring size option lets you know
that your ring will be custom sized. Size options without the asterisk are stock
sizes. Most custom sized ring orders leave our facility in as little as two
business days. Use our convenient Ring Sizer to determine your ring size. Custom
sized rings are not accepted for return.
» Download and Print the
Ring Sizer (PDF document)
Ring Sizer Instructions:
In order to determine your ring size, we ask you to use the two different
ways shown in the document. You may use just one, but we recommend using both in
order to cross check the results and minimize the possibility of making a
mistake.
First, using the sizer strip you have cut out, place it around the finger on
which you wish to wear your ring. Make the numbers face outward and pull the
sizer through the slit over the largest part of your finger (possibly your
knuckle).
Be sure to pull it tightly for a more accurate sizing. Look at the slit and
write down the number that lines up with it.
Second, use your own ring that fits the finger on which you wish to wear your
new ring. Place the ring onto the circular sizers. Whichever circle your ring
fits most closely with will be your ring size. If it falls in between sizes, go
with the larger one.
The number results for both should match. If they do not, we suggest that you
use the larger one to insure that you will be able to wear it when you receive
it. Please note that your fingers will always measure smallest when it is cold,
so you will not want to measure when they are cold.
We offer custom ring sizing at no additional charge. Most of our rings can
be sized, but due to the nature of some designs, not all rings can be sized.
When placing your order, an asterisk (*) beside a ring size option lets you know
that your ring will be custom sized. Size options without the asterisk are stock
sizes. Most custom sized ring orders leave our facility in as little as two
business days. Use our convenient Ring Sizer to determine your ring size. Custom
sized rings are not accepted for return.
THE 4 C's OF DIAMONDS

Buying a diamond is often a very personal experience. Diamonds can be bought
to signify love, significant accomplishments, or milestones in your life or that
of a gift's recipient. Unlike when you buy clothing, electronics, or cars, the
features of a diamond may not seem quite so obvious to you. At COMPANY NAME
HERE, we would like to change that. The more you know about your diamond
jewelry, the more confident you will feel when making your diamond jewelry
choices. Take a moment to learn more about the 4Cs and find out how they play a
an important role in making your diamond jewelry unique.
Shape
The shape of the diamond is
often confused with the cut. COMPANY NAME HERE carries diamonds that are round,
princess, oval, pear, and marquise. Choose the shape that you like based on your
style and you cannot go wrong. (See Figure below)

Cut
The cut of a diamond determines its brilliance or sparkle. Each
shape will be cut differently. Before a diamond is cut, the location of
inclusions and flaws, the natural coloration, and the original shape of the
rough stone are studied extensively. The stone facets are then mapped out and
cut in a way that maximizes size, shape, and clarity. For optimal light
performance, you will want a diamond that is cut neither too shallow nor too
deep, like the stones that COMPANY NAME HERE offers. (See Figure
below)
Color
Diamonds are graded based
on the amount of color they do or do not possess. The scale runs from D
(colorless) to Z (light yellow). An absolutely colorless diamond is rare and
therefore very valuable. At COMPANY NAME HERE, our jewelry contains near
colorless (G-J) diamonds because we feel that they give you the best overall
value. (See Figure below)
Clarity
A diamond is
distinguished by its natural characteristics, just as a person would be noted
for her blue eyes or his brown hair. Notated as a diamond's clarity, these
characteristics can be present on the surface (blemishes) or within the stone
(inclusions). The clarity is judged by the number and types of these
characteristics and is designated using a scale that runs from Fl, defined as
flawless, to I3, defined as inclusions visible with the naked eye. A flawless
diamond is truly rare. (See Figure below)

Carat Weight
The unit of measure
used for the weight of a diamond is the carat. As a matter of reference, a carat
is equivalent to .2 grams or .007 of an ounce. Carat weight can also be divided
further by using points. There are 100 points in one carat. So a 1/4 (.25) carat
stone can also be expressed as 25 points and mean exactly the same thing. When
comparing two diamonds, please note that just because one is twice the carat
weight of the other does not mean that it will appear to be twice the
size.
THE 4 C's OF GEMSTONES
Buying a gemstone is often a very different experience than buying a
diamond. Gemstones are bought based on favorite colors, wardrobe matches,
personality, and fashion trends. While gemstones are judged using the 4Cs, just
as diamonds do, each is judged separately. For example, a sapphire is compared
to another sapphire, but wouldn't be compared to an emerald or aquamarine.
Choose your gemstone jewelry based on your personal preferences.
ShapeCOMPANY NAME HERE sells a
number of different shaped gemstone jewelry. Some of our most popular shapes
include round, marquise, oval, pear, princess, and baguette.
Cut
Gems are cut in a variety of different ways. Transparent stones will often
be cut with facets. Unlike diamonds, the facets are planned to maximize the
color. Other stones like jade, opal, and onyx will be cut into a smooth domed
shape known as a cabochon. While still other stones like cameos are intricately
carved.
Color
Gemstone color is different from judging the color of a diamond. Every
gemstone has a range of color that runs from light to dark and more vivid to
less vivid, with a small range of color considered preferable. All of the
families of color are represented by gems of different types.
|
Red Mozambique, Garnet,
Ruby
Pink
Rhodolite, Garnet, Pink Sapphire
Yellow
Yellow Sapphire, Citrine
Green
Bloodstone, Emerald, Jade, Peridot
Blue
Aquamarine, Blue Chalcedony, Blue Spinel, Blue Zircon, Lapis, Blue
Sapphire |
Purple
Amethyst, Tanzanite
White
Akoya Pearl, Freshwater Pearl, Mabe Pearl, South Sea Pearl, White Spinel,
White Topaz, Moissanite, Opal
Brown
Smoky Quartz
Black/Gray
Tahitian Pearl, Onyx
|
Clarity
Gems also have internal characteristics called inclusions. Some
gemstones are known for having many inclusions like emerald or for having few
inclusions like citrine. Each gemstone will be graded for clarity
differently.
Carat Weight
Like diamonds, gemstones are measured using carats. A carat is
equivalent to .2 grams or .007 of an ounce. Unlike diamonds, each gemstone has a
different density which greatly contributes to the weight of the stone.
DIAMOND & GEMSTONE SIZE RANGES
We take pride in offering great value and quality. In order for us
to offer this value, it is necessary to buy and sell diamonds in weight ranges.
To help assist you in understanding these ranges, we have provided the following
chart of size tolerances.
|
|
accent |
.004 min. |
|
0.01 |
.008 min. |
|
0.015 |
.012 min. |
|
0.02 |
.015 min. |
|
0.025 |
.02 min. |
|
0.03 |
.025 min. |
|
0.04 |
.035 min. |
|
0.05 |
.045 min. |
|
0.06 |
.055 min. |
|
0.07 |
.065 min. |
|
0.08 |
.075 min. |
|
1/10 |
0.09 min. |
|
1/8 |
.11 min. |
|
1/6 |
.14 min. |
|
1/5 |
.18 min. |
|
1/4 |
.23 min. |
|
1/3 |
.29 min. |
|
3/8 |
.37 min. |
|
1/2 |
.45 min. |
|
5/8 |
.60 min. | |
|
3/4 |
.66 min. |
|
7/8 |
.84 min. |
|
9/10 |
.90 min. |
|
1 |
.96 min. |
|
1 1/8 |
1.10 min. |
|
1 1/6 |
1.14 min. |
|
1 1/5 |
1.18 min. |
|
1 1/4 |
1.23 min. |
|
1 1/3 |
1.29 min. |
|
1 3/8 |
1.37 min. |
|
1 1/2 |
1.45 min. |
|
1 5/8 |
1.60 min. |
|
1 3/4 |
1.66 min. |
|
1 7/8 |
1.84 min. |
|
1 9/10 |
1.90 min. |
|
2 |
1.96 min. |
|
2 1/8 |
2.10 min. |
|
2 1/6 |
2.14 min. |
|
2 1/5 |
2.18 min. |
|
2 1/4 |
2.23 min. | |
|
2 1/3 |
2.29 min. |
|
2 3/8 |
2.37 min. |
|
2 1/2 |
2.45 min. |
|
2 5/8 |
2.60 min. |
|
2 3/4 |
2.66 min. |
|
2 7/8 |
2.84 min. |
|
2 9/10 |
2.90 min. |
|
3 |
2.96 min. |
|
3 1/8 |
3.10 min. |
|
3 1/6 |
3.14 min. |
|
3 1/5 |
3.18 min. |
|
3 1/4 |
3.23 min. |
|
3 1/3 |
3.29 min. |
|
3 3/8 |
3.37 min. |
|
3 1/2 |
3.45 min. |
|
3 5/8 |
3.60 min. |
|
3 3/4 |
3.66 min. |
|
3 7/8 |
3.84 min. |
|
3 9/10 |
3.90 min. |
|
4 |
3.96 min. | |
|
4 1/8 |
4.10 min. |
|
4 1/6 |
4.14 min. |
|
4 1/5 |
4.18 min. |
|
4 1/4 |
4.23 min. |
|
4 1/3 |
4.29 min. |
|
4 3/8 |
4.37 min. |
|
4 1/2 |
4.45 min. |
|
4 5/8 |
4.60 min. |
|
4 3/4 |
4.66 min. |
|
4 7/8 |
4.84 min. |
|
4 9/10 |
4.90 min. |
|
5 |
4.96 min. |
|
5 1/8 |
5.10 min. |
|
5 1/6 |
5.14 min. |
|
5 1/5 |
5.18 min. |
|
5 1/4 |
5.23 min. |
|
5 1/3 |
5.29 min. |
|
5 3/8 |
5.37 min. |
|
5 1/2 |
5.45 min. |
|
5 5/8 |
5.60 min. | |
|
5 3/4 |
5.66 min. |
|
5 7/8 |
5.84 min. |
|
5 9/10 |
5.90 min. |
|
6 |
5.96 min. |
|
6 1/8 |
6.10 min. |
|
6 1/6 |
6.14 min. |
|
6 1/5 |
6.18 min. |
|
6 1/4 |
6.23 min. |
|
6 1/3 |
6.29 min. |
|
6 3/8 |
6.37 min. |
|
6 1/2 |
6.45 min. |
|
6 5/8 |
6.60 min. |
|
6 3/4 |
6.66 min. |
|
6 7/8 |
6.84 min. |
|
6 9/10 |
6.90 min. |
|
7 |
6.96 min. | |
METAL TYPE
There are a variety of metals choices available for jewelry.
Whether you like the allure of platinum or the range of options with the classic
gold, you will find a number of stylish pieces, sometimes even combining the two
metals. Today, alternative metals like sterling silver, titanium, and stainless
steel give you additional options in look, strength, price, etc. Each choice has
its own qualities, so base your choice on the ones that you value most.
Platinum
Platinum is
generally 95% pure and does not tarnish or lose its rich white luster. Platinum
is the heaviest of all the precious metals weighing approximately twice as much
as karat gold. Its purity makes it hypoallergenic, perfect for people who are
sensitive to the alloys used in gold. Platinum is also known for its strength
and pliability, just one gram of platinum can drawn into a fine wire over one
mile long.
Gold
Pure 24 karat gold is rarely
used in jewelry because it is too soft for frequent wear. Gold is mixed with
alloys like copper, silver, nickel, and zinc to give different colors, strength,
and durability. Gold's purity is measured in karats, which indicate out of 24
parts how many parts are gold. For example, 18kt gold contains 18/24 gold and
6/24 alloy, while 14kt gold contains 14/24 gold and 10/24 alloy. Gold is
traditionally seen in yellow and white colors, but can also be available in rose
or green on occasion.
Sterling Silver
Sterling silver is
usually 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper. Silver is much more plentiful than
platinum or gold and is much less expensive. It takes on a much higher polish
than any other metal, but it does tarnish. The tarnish can be removed, but
silver requires much more care than other metals.
Titanium
Titanium is a light,
strong, and corrosion-resistant metal. Titanium offers you seven times the
strengh of platinum at about 1/3 of the weight. It is the hardest natural metal
on earth and therefore offers more scratch resistance than gold or silver. In
addition, titanium is also hypoallergenic. When ordering titanium rings, be
extra sure about your ring size. The biggest drawback of titanium rings is that
they cannot be sized by traditional ring sizing methods.
Stainless Steel
Stainless steel is a low cost alternative to traditional metals. It
is naturally hypoallergenic and will not rust or tarnish. Stainless Steel will
not break or bend under normal usage and is stronger than any other
alloy.